Do you know, that in Ancient China, where silk was invented, only the emperor and some members of the imperial family had a privilege to wear it? For approximately a thousand of years, regular citizen couldn't even dream of donning this luxurious material, however later the right to wear silk was granted to some noble dignitaries. During the millennium, the silk-making process been kept in secret, and every person caught telling about silk producing was put to death.
Luckily for us, nowadays silk camis and shirts can be found in many stores, yet, this "Queen of Fabrics" still makes up only 0.2% of the global textile market. Even centuries later, silk remains valuable, rare, and expensive. Let's unravel the mystery of what makes this textile so special.
How silk is made
Thanks to two Byzantine monks who managed to successfully smuggle some silkworm eggs out of China, we know exactly how the intricate process of silk production is going.
Silk is a natural fiber composed of two proteins: fibroin, a core of the silk cocoon, and sericin, a glue-like substance that holds it together. These proteins can be secreted by many insects: spiders, honey bees and bumble bees, beetles, hornets -- they all use it as a material for building their cocoons and nests. However, the primary silk producer is a silkworm -- the larva of domestic silk moth, also called Bombyx mori.
Here's how these tiny creatures create the world's most luxurious fiber:
- First, a mother moth lays eggs on mulberry tree leaves.
- Baby worms hatch the eggs and start to grow, eating mulberry leaves (that's why the most famous silk in the world is called Mulberry).
- Larvae get bigger and bigger, they molt (shed their old skin) four times, and after the fourth time they are ready to spin a cocoon in order to grow as pupae.
- When it's time to make a cocoon, silkworm secrets a very long and thin strand of silk fiber made of fibroin and sericin, wrapping itself in a cocoon. The longest strand observed reached almost 1000 yards long (900 meters)!
- Farmers harvest cocoons and place them in boiling water. That kills the caterpillars inside the cocoons and softens gum-like sericin. This process has many ethical concerns, because pupae are boiled alive, and that's why animal rights activists are strongly disagree with traditional methods of sericulture (silk production).
- There's a more sustainable type of silk available which is called peace (Ahimsa) silk. The farmers allow the silkworms to complete their metamorphosis, be exact to turn into a moth and leave their cocoons. After moths fly away, farmers gather empty cocoons and treat them.
- When cocoons (with or without silkworms) are boiled, it's time to rinse them, find the loose ends and unravel the fibers. It can be done by machine or by human worker.
- Then, fibers are spun into threads and ready to be color treated.
- After silk threads are dyed, they go on a spinning wheel and get woven. Depending of the weave, we can get charmeuse -- the most buttery, liquid fabric for your seductive slip dresses and camis, crisp taffeta that is able to hold lots of volume and makes terrific ball gowns, shiny satin for your luxurious silk scarves, airy and weightless chiffon or other types of silk.
Pros of silk
Silk has many amazing qualities, but the main reason to love it is this thrilling, exciting feel we experience when soft silk touches our bare skin. There is no other fabric that earned such a huge fan base: some collect Hermes scarves, some are addicted to silk bedsheets and pillowcases, and some has an army of drapey blouses and sensual dresses in their wardrobes ready to give their mistress extra confidence during their date nights. So, we all can agree that silk arouses our deepest tactile sensations, and we admire it for a plethora of emotions it induces.
Silk is a natural fiber. It's breathable, comfortable, hypoallergenic and can be worn by people with sensitive skin.
Silk has moisture-wicking properties: it pulls moisture away from the skin and spreads it on the outer surface of fabric. In real life that means that if you get sweat in a silk shirt, your skin would remain dry and cool, however there will be wet stains on the shirt in the places which sweat the most, such as armpits. Despite that, the moisture wicking is a good quality, because it helps with thermoregulation.
Silk is one of the strongest and most durable fibers. If you take a good care of your silk pieces, they will last a long time and might even become a heritage you'll want to pass to your kids and grandkids.
Silk dyes and prints well. Think about how vibrant and colorful silk scarves can be.
Drapability is another defining property of silk. Designers love to work with this textile when they have an idea of something fluid and drapey. When cut on bias, silk hugs the body like nothing else, plus it has some elasticity. We often see silk dresses on the red carpet events.
Silk fibers have triangular prism-like structure that retracts light at different angles. That makes silk fabric lustrous.
Cons of silk
Silk production is a complicated, time-consuming and labor-intensive process which makes the fabric very expensive.
Sericulture raises many ethical questions and can have significant environmental impact.
Silk is a delicate fabric and requires special care. You don't just throw your silk blouse in a washing machine or a dryer; most of garments would have "dry clean only" tags on them. Even if they not, most likely you'll have to hand-wash them in a lukewarm water with a mild detergent, carefully squeeze the water and lay them flat to dry.
Silk can easily be water-stained. Also, keep in mind that wet silk becomes more fragile.
Long exposure to the sun can damage the textile, too.
In what items in silk to invest
If you are ready to indulge in silky luxuriousness, here are some recommendations on what pieces you should pay attention to, based on the fabric qualities.
Scarves. A kiss of silk to your neck is one of the most sensational feelings that entire textile industry can offer you. Also, don't forget: this fabric is exceptional for printing. Designs on silk scarves can be very beautiful, with highly saturated colors and sharp edges.
Pillowcases. Many people believe that silk pillowcase helps to minimize sleep wrinkles and fine lines, and also to reduce hair frizz. It should be mentioned, that not every person would love silk pillowcases: they are slippery, so either your head can slide off the pillow, or the pillowcase can come off the pillow insert. The only way to know if you are a silk-pillowcase-person is to actually try that.
Men ties. Remember: silk fiber is strong, and if it's tightly woven, the fabric becomes even more durable. Silk ties don't stretch out as much as inexpensive textiles, and can be made in any imaginable color, pattern and design.
Camisoles. Of course, these sexy tops on these alluring spaghetti straps look and feel luxurious, but there's also a practical reason for including them in our list. The armholes in cami tops often have lower cut, so you don't need to worry about sweat stains.
Bias cut skirts and slip dresses. If you are looking for a flattering dress or skirt that gently skims your body, go for the garments in silk (or similar textile) that were cut on the diagonal. A bonus: they have more stretch and flexibility than cut in a regular way fabrics.
Underwear and lingerie. Manufacturers love to produce silk underwear for both men and women for two reasons: it feels nice to the skin and allows airflow in both directions. Breathable and hygroscopic -- what else can we ask for?
Base layer for skiing, hiking and other activities. Again, moisture-wicking and breathability make silk an appropriate fabric for undergarments, however it's not as worm as merino or any other wool. Safe to say, that silk layer would be very comfortable, but most likely not the first choice for extreme hobbies like mountain climbing.
Socks. Silk socks might be called an extravagance, but they approved themselves as a great option for sweaty feet. They say, silk prevents bacteria build-up, plus it keeps your feet dry and cool. Also, it's a great choice for people who love to sleep in socks: you feel oh-so-luxurious and don't fray them too fast.
The Silk Road Ahead
Like any textile, silk has its benefits and disadvantages. Silk piece is always an investment, and you should keep in mind that your investment doesn't end the moment you paid to a cashier and finally got you purchase. Most likely, you'll have to spend money on a regular basis for dry cleaning or a special detergent if you're going to hand wash it. In addition to that, you'll have to spend your time on proper care and storage, so think twice before making a purchase decision.
However, if you are ready to take a good care for such a delicate fabric, you'll be rewarded with the most wonderful tactile sensations every time you wear your item.
Also, silk makes fantastic presents. If you have no idea what to give to your loved ones, think of silk pillowcase, silk tie or even socks: any person would appreciate a little luxury treat like these.
If you're interested in exploring more about personal style and fashion choices, check out our guide on how to build a functional wardrobe. For those looking to experiment with different styles, our article on mixing patterns like a pro offers great tips and tricks.
