Coquette Aesthetic, But Make It Winter

November 19, 2025

Woman in a voluminous red gown with a sweetheart bodice and ruffled skirt, wearing a matching hood and a black and red plaid scarf.

Instagram/@selkie

The coquette aesthetic—ribbons, bows, all that ballet-inspired everything—is basically the fashion equivalent of ordering a strawberry milkshake with extra whipped cream and zero ironic distance about it. It's a lot, I'll admit that upfront. Not for everyone. I went back and forth on whether to even write this. But this trend refuses to die. What started as one of those TikTok microtrends has somehow evolved into something you're now seeing in actual editorial spreads, high-street collections, the works. So if you're genuinely drawn to this aesthetic—or you're just curious about navigating current trends without literal frostbite—this is for you.

Woman in a white 18th-century gown reclines among excessive cakes as a maid puts on her pink slipper.

Inspiration: Sofia Coppola's drama "Marie Antoinette". Sony Pictures/Cinetext/Columbia Pictures/Allstar

For anyone not already deep in this world, coquette is basically what happens when Marie Antoinette's wardrobe crashes into Lana Del Rey's whole melancholic romanticism thing—ribbons threading through absolutely everything, ballet-inspired silhouettes, enough lace to outfit a Victorian ghost story, with a color palette that traditionally goes from ballet slipper pink through to burgundy. Here's where it gets interesting though: we'll talk about those traditional colors, but this framework actually works across whatever palette speaks to you. Call it "fortified femininity" or "romantic resilience," but really we're talking about the art of looking like you stepped out of a music box while keeping full circulation in your extremities. I saw someone at a coffee shop the other day—wearing what looked like this cloud of cream cashmere and lace—and when I looked closer, she was actually dressed in legitimately warm layers. The romanticism was all in the details.

Winter 2025-26 isn't demanding you abandon your powder-puff dreams for practical parkas. Instead, we're witnessing an evolution—coquette growing a backbone. She'd cracked the code I'm about to share with you—maintaining coquette's gossamer delicacy when the weather actually demands Gore-Tex and Thinsulate.

Part I: The Thermal Ballet — Understanding Winter Coquette's Core Components

Model wears a fluffy, light pinkish-brown V-neck cardigan featuring a delicate open knit pattern and scalloped edges.

Don't let the airy knit fool you—this wool-blend cardigan (33% kid mohair, 33% merino wool) is as warm as it looks delicate. Sezane at sezane.com

The Fabric Paradox

Traditional coquette relies on materials that have approximately the insulating properties of tissue paper—organza, chiffon, delicate cotton voile. Winter coquette does this sleight of hand thing: it keeps that visual delicacy while secretly incorporating actual thermal technology.

Think about a cable-knit sweater in powder pink angora—vintage lace trimming the collar and cuffs. From a distance? Pure romanticism. Get closer and you're looking at something that could keep you warm in a Scandinavian forest. The key is what I call the "millefeuille method"—progressively heavier fabrics layered underneath while keeping those sheer or lacy elements as your visible top layer.

The New Fabric Hierarchy:

Base: Merino wool, cashmere, thermal knits—all in nude or soft pink tones
Middle: Heavier cottons, wool blends, quilted silk (which yes, exists, and it's magical)
Surface: This is where the romance actually lives—lace overlays, tulle trim, organza details, velvet ribbons doing all the visual work

Color Theory for Frozen Romantics

Legs clad in deep red tights and velvet Mary Jane flats with bows stand amidst dark green ivy foliage.

Instagram/@forloveandlemons

Summer coquette lives in a world of shell pink and cream. Winter coquette discovers the darker edges of the romantic spectrum without losing its essential sweetness. Think of it as moving from a macaron palette to a red wine reduction—deeper, richer, but still fundamentally indulgent.

The Extended Palette:

Barely-There Base: Cream, ecru, pearl, nude rose
The New Pinks: Dusty rose, dried peony, ballet slipper fading to grey
Romantic Depths: Burgundy, chocolate brown (yes, brown is having a moment), navy that's almost black
Surprise Players: Sage green (straight from cottagecore's playbook), lavender grey, the palest yellow you can imagine

Picture a burgundy velvet dress with cream lace stockings and chocolate brown leather boots (optionally, with satin ribbons tied around them). The whole look gives "governess in a Gothic novel" but also "fashion editor at a countryside wedding." That's winter coquette.

Part II: The Architectural Challenge — Silhouettes That Work

Woman wears a red military jacket over a pink corset, quilted hip pads, knee socks with ribbons, and black pointed heels.

Instagram/@selkie

The Outerwear Dilemma

Nothing kills a coquette moment faster than throwing a technical parka over your carefully curated ensemble. But freezing to death isn't particularly romantic either (despite what the Romantic poets might have you believe). The solution lies in what I call "strategic romanticism"—choosing one or two coquette elements to emphasize while letting function handle the rest.

The Coat Hierarchy:

Woman wears a cream coat with a funnel neck, asymmetrical gold zipper, flared skirt panel, and tall black leather boots.

This coat has serious coquette potential: fitted, ruffled, creamy, and just waiting to be paired with suede over-the-knee boots in a romantic shade like burgundy or ochre. Mackage coat at saksfifthavenue.com

The Princess Coat: Fitted wool with a flared skirt, ideally in cream or pale pink, covered buttons and maybe a fur collar. Jackie Kennedy meets Bridgerton.

Woman stands on grass wearing a grey floral embroidered cape with a large black bow, striped knit trousers, and sunglasses.

Buru cape at shopburu.com

The Opera Cape: Not practical for blizzards, but perfect for car-to-door situations. Velvet or heavy wool, bonus points for hood with silk lining.

Model wears a light pink quilted jacket covered in a pink floral rose print, featuring a corduroy collar and wide sleeves.

LoveShackFancy at loveshackfancy.com

The Quilted Romance: Take the puffer coat's warmth, reshape it with princess seams and strategic quilting patterns, add pearl buttons. Moncler makes dreamy versions; mass market has decent interpretations for those of us living in reality.

Model wears a brown faux fur jacket with a wide sailor collar and tie detail over a green turtleneck and long brown skirt.

By Malene Birger faux fur coat at modaoperandi.com

The Teddy Hybrid: Sherpa or teddy coat in cream or pale brown, belted, with feminine shaping. It's giving "romantic heroine who also owns livestock."

The Layering Formula

Model stands on a rock by the sea in an oversized olive puffer coat, textured mini skirt, long socks, and hiking boots.

Winter coquette is ruffles built for rough weather. Cecilie Bahnsen x The North Face collab. Instagram/@ceciliebahnsen

Winter coquette is essentially an engineering problem: how to stack maximum warmth while maintaining visual delicacy. Here's the formula to keep you both warm and coquette:

The Base Architecture:

Thermal underlayer—nude or pink
Knit piece with romantic details—I'm talking puff sleeves, pearl buttons, lace collar
Structural middle layer (fitted cardigan, sweater vest, or maybe a cropped jacket)
Statement outer layer (coat, cape, or elaborate scarf situation)
Accessories that pull triple duty (aesthetic, warmth, and tying everything together)

Part III: The Practical Romance — Real-World Applications

Woman wears a belted taupe trench coat topped with a statement white circular lace capelet featuring intricate cutout designs.

By Anthropologie lace cape at anthropologie.com

The Footwear Reality Check

Pink satin pump with sculptural heel, featuring blue lacing and a pleated pink ruffle, over a framed painting.

The shoes from Manolo Blahnik limited-edition capsule collection "Marie Antoinette". Instagram/@manoloblahnik

Ballet flats in January are a form of self-harm I cannot endorse. But winter coquette doesn't mean defaulting to combat boots (save those for your grunge days). The sweet spot lives in:

The Shoe Wardrobe:

Victorian Boots: Lace-up boots—ankle or knee-high—in leather or suede. If they have buttons or ribbon laces, even better. Doc Martens makes a "Victorian Flowers" boot that somehow works; higher-end options include Zimmermann or Chloé.
Mary Jane Evolution: Block heel Mary Janes in patent leather or velvet. Perfect for indoor office environments or those in warmer climates.
Knee-High & Over-the-Knee Boots: Your ultimate winter coquette piece. Look for leather or suede with feminine details—a small heel, maybe ribbon lacing up the back, subtle bow hardware. These work over tights, under midi skirts, and they pull together any winter outfit instantly.
The Statement Sock: Lace-trimmed knee socks or cable knit over-the-knee socks peeking out from boots—don't overlook these.

The Accessories That Matter

Person with curly hair held up by a mauve claw clip adorned with a large dusty rose velvet bow.

Jennifer Behr hair accessory at jenniferbehr.com

Your accessories have to do triple duty here: warmth, practicality, and keeping the aesthetic going when you're so bundled up you're barely recognizable.

Woman in a red knitted hood/balaclava tied with a bow, wearing a navy embroidered sweater over two blonde braids.

Balabonnet at freepeople.com. They have sparkly options with sequins, too

Essential Arsenal:

Gloves: Go for leather or suede with bow details, lace trim, pearl buttons. If you want drama, long opera gloves in knit cashmere work.
Scarves: Oversized cashmere in pale tones. If you're feeling brave, try genuine vintage lace scarves layered over wool.
Hats: Berets, obviously. Fur-trimmed hoods. And—okay, hear me out—vintage-style bonnets are having a moment. From Zara to Simone Rocha, from farmer's markets to fashion week, they're everywhere and somehow not costume-y when done right.
Bags: Structure is key here. Think frame bags, basket bags lined with gingham, or leather with romantic hardware. The Coach Pillow bag in shearling is perfection; thrift stores hide vintage gems.

Part IV: The Shopping Strategy — Building Your Winter Coquette Wardrobe

Model wears a pink quilted jacket, white fur hat, and matching tall white fur boots accented with pink satin bows.

Instagram/@loveshackfancy

The Investment Pieces (Where to Splurge)

One Perfect Coat: This is your armor. Make it count. Get something that'll actually last multiple seasons.
Quality Knitwear: Cashmere or merino with romantic details. Try Sézane, Reformation, or vintage shops.
Boots: Good leather that's comfortable for actual walking but romantic enough for the aesthetic.

But here's what matters: winter coquette only works if it resonates with you. If ribbons and lace feel like you're playing dress-up instead of expressing yourself, pay attention to that. The real investment isn't any particular piece—it's figuring out what makes you feel like yourself, even when trends are everywhere.

The Vintage Victories

Model wears a pink mock-neck sweater with an open back tied with a bow over a white floral skirt with ribbon lacing details.

Simone Rocha at shop-us.simonerocha.com

Estate sales and vintage shops are absolute goldmines:

Lace collars and cuffs (attach these to modern sweaters)
Brooches and cameos (instant coquette credentials)
Genuine vintage coats with interesting buttons, interesting shapes
Silk scarves and handkerchiefs you can layer

Part V: The Lifestyle Integration — Making It Work

Legs wear pink velvet peep-toe block-heel sandals over sheer floral ankle socks detailed with black ruffles and blue bows.

Ruffle sheer socks at sockcandy.com

The Office Translation

Corporate coquette in winter means choosing your battles. Cream wool dress with subtle lace at the neckline, nude tights, leather pumps with a bow detail, structured coat—this combination reads as professional while keeping the aesthetic intact. Add a vintage brooch at the collar. Carry a frame bag. You're channeling "youngest partner at the firm who also collects first edition poetry."

The Weekend Reality

For a Saturday farmer's market: high-waisted jeans, cream cable knit with pearl buttons, vintage lace-up boots, and an oversized scarf that could double as a blanket. Add a basket bag. Maybe a beret if you're feeling French.

The Evening Evolution

Woman in a fitted rust velvet midi dress featuring puffed sleeves and lace trim detail at the bust.

Reformation dress at thereformation.com

Winter evening coquette is where you can really lean in. Velvet dresses. Opera gloves. Capes. Vintage fur stoles. Enough jewelry to stock a small museum. This is your moment to channel "protagonist in a winter romance novel who's probably harboring dark secrets."

The Philosophical Finish: Why Winter Coquette Matters

Model in a beige fluffy jacket, a sparkly knit hood, and a sheer silver sequin maxi skirt over dark leggings and chunky boots.

Intimately sheer half slip at freepeople.com

There's something rebellious about maintaining delicate femininity when the weather's harsh. You're refusing to let practicality dictate everything about how you look. And at the same time proving that romance and function can coexist. Winter coquette is basically saying: "Yes, wind chill is real, but I'm not dressing like I've given up on beauty."

The triumph isn't in getting it perfect—it's in the attempt. Every ribbon you tie around a boot, every lace collar peeking from a sweater, every pearl button on a winter coat—small resistances against the mundane. You're choosing to see winter as one more stage for romantic expression instead of something to just endure in technical fabrics.

Your Winter Coquette Checklist

Close-up of a woman wearing gold drop earrings shaped like pink enamel bows, one accented with a dangling pearl.

Kendra Scott x LoveShackFancy collab jewelry. Instagram/@kendrascott

The Non-Negotiables:

One romantic coat that actually keeps you warm
Quality boots that merge practical and pretty
At least three knits with interesting details
Romantic accessories—gloves, scarves, hats, all of it
Thermals in nude or pink tones (seriously, these are non-negotiable)

The Experiments to Try:

Layer lace over knit and document the results
Attempt the "Victorian boot with modern dress" combination
Find your perfect shade between pink and brown
Master the art of romantic hat wearing without looking costume-y
Create one completely impractical but gorgeous winter coquette look for special occasions

The Questions to Consider:

Woman wears a pink belted coat featuring an oversized pink faux fur collar and dramatic matching cuffs.